Saturday, August 15, 2009

Circuit details

Today we'll be getting fairly technical. After some photos of the mower's innards, we'll check out the circuit schematic. This is intended for people with an understanding of basic electronics; if you're not one of those people, just enjoy the cool pictures!

When we remove the black plastic cover from the mower, we find that the two batteries are secured with a strap and two styrofoam blocks:
Click on photo for full picture.

Four cables are used to connect the batteries, motor, and main circuit board to one another:
 Click on photo for full picture.
Note the wiring of the two 12V batteries in series, to generate 24V for the motor.

There are two printed circuit boards inside the mower. Black and Decker says nothing about them in the owner's manual, so I have taken it upon myself to name them:

1. The Main Circuit Board (green side visible in photo below) sends power from the battery to the motor. It contains the main switch and circuit breaker.

2. The Charger Interface Circuit Board (white side visible in photo) controls the recharging of the batteries, and is (apparently) not active when the mower is in use.
Click on photo for full picture.

Here is the circuit schematic for the CMM1000, Type 5. I imagine Types 1 through 5 may all have the same circuit, and perhaps the CMM1200 does as well, but I wouldn't swear by it.
Click on figure for full picture.

Some rambling observations about the circuit:

1. The two 12V batteries are wired in series to produce 24V. The batteries that come with the mower are from B.B.Battery, model # BP17-12 (17 Amp-hours, 12 Volts). I have since replaced them with 22 Amp-hour batteries of the same physical size. I'll write more about them in a future blog.

2. The Main Circuit Board controls the power to the motor via a circuit breaker and the main switch. The main switch is controlled by a cable that runs up to the handle where you, the user, pull on it using the switch lever.

3. If the mower is running and the operator releases the handle, the main switch returns to the "Off/Brake" position. This disconnects the battery and instead shorts the motor terminals. Without going into details, the short provides a fast breaking action for the motor rather than letting it spin down gradually. When the breaker opens and the handle is not released, the main switch stays in the "On" position and the motor spins down gradually.

4. The brake wire used to short the motor is rather long, and makes 14 loops of a roughly 5" x 1" area. (See 3rd photo.) Perhaps this is to provide some small inductance, but I don't understand exactly why this would be beneficial.

5. The circuit breaker is rated for 24V and 40A. It contains what appears to be a bimetal switch. Presumably the heat generated when the current rating is exceeded bends the bimetal into an open position. I have found that about 30 seconds after opening, the breaker switch on my mower has cooled enough to close and the mower may be restarted. I also found that heating directly with a hair dryer does not cause the bimetal to open, so it must be quite hot when it does.

6. There is a 68 ohm resistor inside the circuit breaker. It would provide a current path whenever the breaker opens, and is here presumably because of the inductive load presented by the motor. I'm admittedly curious about why the resistor is there and details of what it really does. (How I got in the position of prying open the circuit breaker is a story for another day.)

7. The Charger Interface Board is a maze of components and it would take a long time to break it down into a detailed schematic, so for now it remains something of a black box. The main features (not shown here) are 4 diodes + 1 capacitor (full wave rectifier?), an LM317 regulator, and a 14-pin IC. There are also oodles of resistors and some more diodes and capacitors. All I know for certain is, as shown in the schematic, that it contains the two indicator lights and receives the charger plug.

25 comments:

  1. This comment has been removed by a blog administrator.

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  2. Hi Mark this is super helpful. I'm a big fan of these mowers since they are quiet and efficient... as a matter of fact I have two of them (one of them is for spare parts). I'd like to ditch the white styrofoam and replace the batteries with some serious 12 volt riding lawnmower batteries made by SuperStart. I can get them at Schucks for $25 each and they have 275 cold cranking amps. They'd fit perfectly and if I wire them in series the way the originals were, then i'd get the 24 volts. My goal here is to be able to mow a lot more grass before having to recharge... however I'm wondering if the charger would work properly with the bigger batteries or if I need to retrofit somehow? Seems like sometimes right now the charger is too smart for its own good and the light turns green and it stops charging the batteries before they're full. I'm hoping my new batteries will work and the existing charger can be used. I wonder would it be possible to just hook the charger output wires direct to the batteries... or does that circuit board actually tell the charger when to stop charging the batteries so they don't overcharge? I'm guessing that's built into the charger... any thoughts? Lastly, and i know this will sound a bit eco-crazy... but if I have two small marine solar panels wired in series to produce a 26v output and 2 amps, could i ditch the stock charger altogether and use solar? If so, how would i keep the batteries from overcharging (since i'm guessing this feature is built into the charger)?

    -Mike

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  3. Hi Mike,

    I would expect the built-in charger to work on larger batteries, and just take longer to charge them. (I wouldn't want to use it on smaller batteries without knowing more about the charging current, since you want to be sure you don't charge the batteries too fast.) As long as the Amp-hour rating of the batteries is at least 17, you're probably okay.

    I'm not familiar enough with solar chargers, or making DIY battery chargers, to advise you on those. Sorry!

    Regards,

    Mark

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  4. Thanks Mark, any thoughts on my battery charger problem? Have you heard of other situations where the light turns green and the charger stops charging BEFORE the batteries are actually charged? Right now it goes for a few minutes and at first the charger appears to work properly by putting bursts of 26 to 29 volts in into the battery. The battery voltage then starts to climb steadily from 13.5 to up around 15 volts but then the charging light goes from red to green and the charger stops doing anything even though the batteries are still very weak. I'd like to upgrade the batteries if that's what is needed, but don't want to do that if the charger or something else is the problem. Have you run into this before or do you have any ideas? Perhaps it would be safe to hook the charger up directly to the batteries to see if the circuit and charging indication light are what's causing the trouble.

    Thanks,
    Mike

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  5. I haven't heard of behavior like that before, but it sounds like your batteries are near dead if they are only at 13.5V. Two questions for you: (1) how old are the batteries, and (2) do you stop mowing when the batteries first show signs of being drained (for CMM1000, battery meter needle in upper red zone) or keep mowing? Also, could you check each battery's voltage individually?

    I've read that batteries should last 4 years or more if properly cared for, but it could be less if they get drained too much during use, or aren't kept charged during the winter.

    I don't know why the charger gives a green light at just 15V. There might be something in the circuit that senses the batteries are near end of life, but I'm just guessing on that.

    p.s. feel free to contact me: mark (at) harbormist (dot) com, the communication might go faster that way. (I thought there was a link here somewhere to send me email, but I can't find it.)

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  6. Thanks Mark, the batteries are maybe four years old... and we drain them pretty much all the way down and then (try to) charge them all the way up. I'd heard that was the right way to keep from getting "memory"... but sounds like I may have been misguided. I think we might have also left them dead for the winter. Sounds like I've done everything wrong?! I'll disconnect them and check independantly... I suspect you're thinking that if one is much lower voltage than the other then I'll have found the problem? Sounds like a plan. Then after that I'll see if I can hook the charging wires up to the batteris directly to charge them up. Thanks!

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  7. Hi Mike,

    I would not hook up the charger plug-in unit directly to the batteries. Use the circuit in the mower, it has a voltage regulator and circuitry to prevent overcharging.

    Sounds like it is time for new batteries! I would replace BOTH batteries, regardless of what you find when measuring them separately. Four years is not a bad life for them, from what I have read in reviews at Amazon.com.

    Different battery chemistries have different recommendations for draining vs. not draining. For these batteries (lead acid, just like your car battery) it is best *not* to drain them fully. The CMM1000 mower has a gauge showing the batteries' condition, and the manual says to stop mowing when the indicator needle reaches the lower "red" zone of the meter -- even though the mower is still capable of cutting grass. I find, when I'm at this point, that recharging for just 1 hour is enough to finish up my 1/4 acre.

    The CMM1200 mower does not have a battery gauge, so if that's what you have you are on your own to judge when the battery charge is low. I think if there is a noticeable drop in power then it is time to stop. For some reason the CMM1200 manual does not discuss this issue, though the CMM1000 manual does.

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  8. Hi Mark, thanks for the prior insights. I went ahead and bought the two monster batteries and put them in there. The mower performed incredibly with them-- far better than new and perhaps well beyond what B&D had ever dreamed of... although my neighbors probably think I'm crazy now, because I turned on the backyard floodlights and mowed my 6" deep lawn in the rain at dusk. The mower did a great job and was barely discharged afterwards! On a dry summer day, I suspect I could mow over an acre on a single charge! It boggles my mind why they didn't put the big batteries in there as original equipment... they'd have killed the gas mower long ago with that kind of performance. I mean, sure the mower is another 10 or 15 lbs heavier, but the extra weight isn't even noticeable (although my yard is flat)! So anyway, that was the good news. The bad news, is that I now seem to have the opposite problem with my charger. When I hooked it up, it begain charging normally, with the charging light showing red and this time it continued charging... even after the battery was fully charged. I stayed around with my digital test meter hooked up, and finally had to disconnect the charger when the batteries hit 25.5 volts... I think it would have just kept going! Any ideas what to do next? I was thinking, if I put a couple leads directly to the battery posts, and then drill a hole in the side of the housing and have them dangle out, then I could charge the batteries directly (bi-passing the circuit board) using a store-bought general purpose 24 volt battery charger (which I would presume would have some overcharge protection built into it). Thoughts on that approach or any alternate ideas?

    Thanks,
    Mike

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  9. Hi Mike,

    Fully charged batteries could be as high as 27 to 29 volts, so I'm not convinced (yet) that the charger is at fault. Also, higher capacity batteries will take longer to charge than you may be used to. Do you know the Amp-hour (Ah) rating of your new batteries? With that information, we can probably guestimate how much longer charging should take -- the batteries that come with the mower are rated for 17 or 18 Amp-hours.

    Also, how long did it take to reach 25.5 volts? You may be being overly cautious, which is a good thing of course.

    Mark

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  10. Hi Mark, I charged it up today for about eight hours and the voltage got up to 29.2 before I finally disconnected it. The red light stayed on and the charger was still going to town, so i got worried it was going to mess up the batteries. Here is the battery info:

    SuperStart Part No U1LJ
    Cold Cranking Amps: 160
    Cranking Amps: 200
    Reserve Capacity: 30

    There are two of them, so I guess that would make the reserve capacity double then, to become RC 60? I'm not sure if that's the same as amp-hours. Can you tell from that, how long I can leave the charger on before I risk overcharging?

    Thanks,
    Mike

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  11. Hi Mike,

    I wasn't familiar with the "Reserve Capacity" rating before, but after googling I found ***this:

    "Reserve Capacity (RC) is a very important rating. This is the number of minutes a fully charged battery at 80 °F will discharge 25 amps until the battery drops below 10.5 volts."

    (Note, this is for a 12V battery)

    So your batteries (RC=30) would last 30 minutes at 25 amps. We don't double the number for series-connected batteries. Also, this means the Amp-hour rating is

    (25 Amps) x (1/2 hour) = 12.5 Amp-hrs

    (I used 1/2 hour because that's what 30 minutes is.)

    This is weird, that's less than the 17 or 18 A-h rating of the original battery. Maybe your new batteries are designed for high current, at the expense of a shorter run time. The CMM1000 motor runs at 12 Amps, so a 200 Amp battery is overkill here. Since you have bought the batteries, you might as well go ahead and try them and see how they do.

    Not sure what to do about your charger. You could buy a separate charger if you want to try that, but you should probably ask either the battery seller or charger seller what charging current they would recommend for your battery. In the future I'd charge to 27V to be on the safe side if using the mower charger.

    DIY battery charging is getting outside my area of expertise though, so playing it safe is the best advice I can offer at this point.

    Mark

    ***source: http://www.batterystuff.com/tutorial_battery.html

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  12. I've been working on a CMM1000 that shuts down randomly. Circuit breaker trips. FYI - I monitored the on board battery charger and it charged to 27.6vdc and displayed green light. I disconnected the charger and reconnected it and the batteries charged to 29.7vdc before the green light came on. Not uncommon, like in a car, the charging system will produce 14-14.5 volts. Hope this helps.

    BTW, anyone else have circuit breaker trip issues? Appears a bad breaker since I'm not drawing any where close to 40A. Any help is mush appreciated.

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  13. Ted,

    This was happening to mine last year (mower was 3 years old). Replacing the breaker fixed the problem:

    http://markselectricmower.blogspot.com/2009/11/fixing-problem-june-2009.html

    You can order a new breaker here:
    http://www.ereplacementparts.com/circuit-breaker-p-100616.html

    Regards,

    Mark

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  14. Howdy Mark,
    In the top of this posting you mention that you used 22 Amp-Hour batteries and you'd provide details in a future post. I can't find that. Can you point me to that or provide the info on where you got those? Thanks very much.

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  15. Hi Mike,

    Sorry, I have been meaning to blog about that with the full info.

    I bought two of part # TR22-12 from batteryspec.com :
    http://www.batteryspec.com/cgi-bin/cart.cgi?action=link&product=68

    -- Mark

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  16. Continuing that last comment ...
    The batteries were $42 each, and shipping was $30 for a total of $114.

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  17. Hi Mark,

    I got new batteries because the charger would run indefinitely, but the red charging light would not go out. I replaced the batteries and left the charger running overnight, but it still indicated that they were not charged. When I put the key in and turn the switch, it just clicks (the first time the mower made a slight noise, but also did not start).

    I checked the voltage with my multimeter across the two battery terminals on the left and it reads 27v. Both the batteries I took out read over 12v.

    Any ideas about what could be broken?

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  18. Any batteries with a cold cranking amp rating are not really suited for deep discharge cycles. The lifetime of the battery is likely the suffer in the wrong application.

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  19. All... I appreciate you all putting all the details of the BD mowers in here. But there is one spec I am looking for...

    Does anyone know what type of motor is in here? Is it a brushless motor?
    Has anyone every used these motors for wind mill projects? If so, how many RPM volts were you seeing?

    Thanks,

    ++Todd

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  20. The motor has brushes. Not sure about the RPM-volts relation, maybe somebody else can chime in.

    -- Mark

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  21. Hi Mark,

    My CM1000 died suddenly a few weeks back. It was the battery. Information your presented was very helpful. After reading your blog I was able to order the TR22-12 battery with absolute confidence (still $42 + $30 S&H) instead of paying B&D $135 + tax for a somewhat inferior battery. Didn’t buy the TD22-12 since it was a bit more expensive and I figured if I don’t let the battery discharge excessively (recharge before the gauge gets to yellow) I should get enough life out of TR. Received the batteries earlier this week and things are looking great :)

    I believe I will need the brushes next. Brushes for this model seem to have been discontinued. Fortunately I was able to find some at http://www.abtecparts.com/commerce/search/products/?product_id=10XBD24227300&merchant_id=1933. Haven’t received them yet so don’t know if they will actually work, but at $15 it seemed like good insurance to have.

    Any way, just wanted to stop by and say thanks.

    -Ajay

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  22. You're welcome Ajay, and thanks for posting the link to abtecparts.com. Always good to have an alternate supplier.

    The abtecparts link to all Black & Decker mower parts is:
    http://www.abtecparts.com/black_&_decker_lawn_mowers.htm

    And for other mower brands:
    http://www.abtecparts.com/lawn_mower_parts.htm

    Regards,

    Mark

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  23. Great Blog and Just FYI
    My CMM 1000 was recalled then rebuilt as a CMM 1200 at the end of last season, New charger, new switch, handle. I just replaced the battery(s) 12V 17 Amp. It took a very long time to charge the new batteries 22+ hours. I just turned it on and the motor runs stronger than it ever has. The only concern is the red light on the charger stays red. WIth my old battery the indicator turned green but the run time under a 1/2 hour. Any clue why the red indicator stays on and is there a concern?

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  24. From looking at previous comments exchanged here (with MikeM, March 12 2010), I would guess -- and it's just a guess -- that these aren't quite the correct batteries for the mower. "Chris", (see June 2010, above) reported the same problem but I was at a loss as to how to help :-(

    Is your battery rating for 17 Amps, or is it 17 Amp-HOURS (17 Ah)? Is there any other tech info for the batteries?

    Final comment (for now): you might try asking at www.lawnmowerforum.com . It's an online lawnmower forum I just joined a couple of weeks ago. Most of the people there use gas mowers, but there is a small number of electric mower folks as well. More people seeing your question = better chance of correctly troubleshooting the problem.

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  25. Hi Mark,

    In regards to an earlier post, Mike asked about using a solar set up to charge the mower. I used this solar/battery setup ( http://www.sustainlane.com/reviews/how-to-build-a-solar-generator/KFY2FIT8BTVDN888J7FDQKKKK8YO ) with some changes (stuff I already had or equivalents I found cheaper) for camping and then set it up for charging my mower when not camping. I just plugged the mower's stock AC charger into the inverter and didn't worry about trying to make a direct charge circuit from the panels to the mower.

    Jeff

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